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St. John, U.S.V.I.

In certain respects, St. John hasn't changed much since I first moved to the Caribbean island with my mom over 25 years ago. Sure, there are more restaurants, shops, and tourists who visit them. However, approximately two-thirds of the island is owned and managed by the United States Park Service and has maintained its pristine beauty over the years.

If you are like most budget travelers, your first view of St. John will be from a boat. The island has no airport and very limited seaplane and helicopter service. Most visitors arrive by ferry to the main dock in Cruz Bay, on the island's west side. The dock is serviced hourly from Red Hook and by a less frequent ferry from downtown Charlotte Amalie (pronounced ah-MAHL-yeh), both on St. Thomas. Other ferries run less regularly to and from Tortola and Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands.

Each ferry is met by taxi and tour bus drivers. Most taxis are actually large open-aired "safari buses" which primarily service the beaches along the north shore. Don't be surprised if the taxi doesn't depart promptly. It is common practice for the safari buses to wait for a full load or for the ferries to empty before leaving. Just sit back, enjoy the cool breeze, and remind yourself that you are on "island time" now. It helps to remember that some of the world's most beautiful beaches will still be waiting for you at the end of the short and winding ride, once it gets going.

Each safari bus will typically stop at all the major north shore beaches. The first, Caneel Bay, is a luxury resort beach and hotel, established by Laurance Rockefeller. Room rates at the resort begin at several hundred dollars per night.

Continuing along the north shore road, the beaches of Hawksnest Bay are usually quieter and less touristed than the other major beaches, partially because they have fewer amenities, with only picnic tables and showers.

The island's crown jewel, Trunk Bay, is the beach typically seen in brochures and on postcards, but it can get overly crowded at times. Unlike the island's other beaches, a small admission fee is charged to visitors of Trunk Bay. The beach is staffed by life guards and also offers showers, picnic tables, a snack bar, and snorkel rentals.

Most uniquely, Trunk Bay has one of the world's few underwater snorkeling trails. Plaques under the sea point out interesting sites along the coral reef. While snorkeling or diving, don't be surprised to find yourself surrounded by schools of hundreds of tiny shimmering silver fish, called fry.

Cinnamon Bay offers the island's longest beach and during the winter boasts some of the island's largest waves. You can pick up a picnic lunch and refreshments at the cafeteria or the small grocery store, located near the taxi drop-off. A beach-side shop rents snorkeling equipment. Cinnamon Bay also has some of the best deals for budget accommodations on St. John. The small number of campsites and cabins are managed by the U.S. Park Service, but to enjoy the beach-side accommodations you will need to make reservations four to six months in advance.

Further along the north shore road is Maho Bay, an independently run campground. In addition to permanent tents, Maho has a cafeteria and presents a variety of art and cultural programs throughout the week. Classes and demonstrations include glass blowing, pottery, and mask making. If you are interested in staying at Maho Bay, again consider making reservations long before your arrival, especially during high season.

In addition to beautiful beaches and other sea life, St. John has miles of well maintained hiking trails. The U.S. Park Service runs a small visitor's center in Cruz Bay where tourists can make reservations for guided hikes, pick up trail maps, and view displays of the island's flora and fauna. Be sure to also check the schedule for nature and history presentations offered by park service rangers at other venues throughout the island.

While at the visitor's center, consider making reservations for a guided hike along the Reef Bay trail. On the morning of the hike, a safari bus transports hikers from Cruz Bay to the top of the trail. Park rangers then escort groups on the 2.2 mile hike, most of which is downhill. Plan on bringing a sack lunch, which you will have an opportunity to enjoy while taking a break near a group of rock carvings, called petroglyphs. The origins of the petroglyphs have not been determined, though they may have been carved by pre-Columbian Caribe Indians or later by African slaves. The hike proceeds to the seaside ruins of a sugar plantation and eventually ends with a ferry ride back to Cruz Bay.

Another hiking trail, which begins in Cruz Bay near the park service visitor's center, will take you past some of the islands more secluded north shore beaches. Honeymoon Beach is only accessible by trail or boat and is an excellent place to get away from the crowds, especially on days when cruise ships are visiting the island. While out hiking, you are likely to come across donkeys, mongoose, and small yellow birds called bananaquits. Also keep an eye out for the more elusive iguana and deer.

The Annaberg Sugar Mill is another site worth visting, not far from the Maho Bay campgrounds. Self-guided and ranger-guided tours take visitors through the ruins of the plantation where slave labor was once used to process sugar cane into rum and molasses.

Visitors who opt to rent a car should not hesitate to explore the east side of the island. Coral Bay, the island's only other town, consists mainly of a handful of restaurants, bars, and shops. Skinny Legs is a favorite bar and grill with the locals, but don't bother ordering a piņa colada or a rum punch. Skinny Legs is so busy that they have stopped making blender drinks, but they do serve well drinks and beers -- along with some of the best hamburgers around.

To get an excellent rum punch, visit Shipwreck Landing, just a five minute drive beyond Coral Bay. Besides the full bar, Shipwreck serves lunch and dinner with a mid-priced, mostly seafood menu. Consider calling ahead to find out on what nights you can also enjoy live music and dancing.

Across from Shipwreck, a careful explorer may find the perfect shell to take home as a souvenir. While beaches along the north and west shores are sandy, the island's east and south shore beaches are better suited for finding shells and time worn sea glass.

Visitors wishing to arrange day sails or fishing excursions should call or stop by Connections. The main location in Cruz Bay along with a small satellite location in Coral Bay work with charter boats to arrange a variety of day trips. As the name implies, Connections also allows visitors to make long distance calls, send mail, and connect to the Internet. If you are interested in diving, visit or call one of the island's several dive shops to arrange a reef or wreck diving excursion. While exploring the waters by boat, keep an eye out for sea turtles, dolphins, or even a migrating whale.

If you are the partying type, consider visiting St. John during the week of Fourth of July when Cruz Bay celebrates Carnival. Don't miss the parade, which features elaborate costumes, small floats, and steel drum bands. Another Carnival highlight is the stilt-dancers called mocko jumbies, the origins of which can be traced back to Africa. Several nights of live music and lots of tasty Caribbean food will help to put anyone in a celebrating mood. Coral Bay has its own smaller version of carnival over Labor Day weekend.

Also at night, be sure to check out the sky. Located in the middle of the ocean, St. John has less light pollution than much of the rest of the world. Consequently, the sky above St. John seems twice as full of stars. Let the tree frogs serenade you as you gaze up at the constellations.

I may be biased about this Caribbean gem, since I have lived there on and off over the years, but I do believe that St. John has something to offer almost anyone. The slowed pace alone is worth the trip.

QUICK TIPS

• Greet locals with "Good Morning", "Good Day", or "Good Evening" to ensure that you get off on the right foot.
• For cheap airfare and accommodations, visit during the off season -- summer. The islands are just as inviting, the waves aren't as high, and you won't have to fight for your own patch of sand.
• If you do rent a car, remember this single rule -- drive on the left! The Virgin Islands were once a Danish colony and still drive on the left-hand side of the road as a result. Denmark eventually switched, but the Virgin Islands still has not.
• Locally produced rum is cheaper than mixers, so mixed drinks containing rum are often made much stronger than in the states. In fact, most drinks are made much stronger.
• Avoid Trunk Bay on days when cruise ships are visiting the islands. If you aren't sure, just ask the locals or pick up a newspaper, the Virgin Islands Daily News.
• To avoid having your vacation ruined, keep in mind that hurricane season runs approximately from early June to late November.
• On the weekends, consider stopping by the ball field in the center of Cruz Bay, where you might be lucky enough to catch an inter-island cricket match.